North Jensen, Stuart, FL (MM 981.4) to Eau Gallie, Melbourne, FL (914.7)
Theme of the Day: Entering Northern Florida. All. The. Dolphins. And a little nighttime magic.
Day 4, and we were officially entering the “Northern Florida” section of our ICW adventure. Sounds promising, right? Except looking ahead at the chart, we realized we were going to be in Florida for AWHILE.
Seriously, will this state EVER going to end?!
Florida. STILL Florida, just…Northern Florida!
The scenery was slowly changing from waterfront mansions and endless bridges to wider lagoons, mangroves, and quieter coastal towns, but one thing was certain: Florida wasn’t going anywhere anytime soon!
Florida has a LOT of coastline. That’s obvious enough looking at a map. But when you’re trying to get north before hurricane season really ramps up, you develop an entirely new appreciation for just how ridiculously LONG this state is.
For our trip, of the roughly 1,065 statute miles of ICW between Fort Lauderdale and Norfolk, a whopping 351 miles—ONE THIRD of our entire journey—were in Florida alone! And that’s not even counting the ICW south of Fort Lauderdale.
North Carolina wasn’t far behind at 29%, followed by South Carolina at 22%, Georgia at 13%, and Virginia at just 3%.
And if you consider the longer Atlantic ICW route all the way from Norfolk to Key West, Florida accounts for approximately 43% of the total. FORTY-THREE PERCENT!
For our blog and YouTube videos, we followed the regional divisions in Skipper Bob’s ICW cruising guide, which was also our primary reference for tracking our progress north. Seemed as good a way as any to break up a state that apparently went on FOREVER.
Florida wasn’t getting any shorter, but at least it was getting prettier!
Sunrise on the Treasure Coast
We were up before the sun, hauled anchor, pointed Water Wings toward the Jensen Beach Causeway Bridge, and got moving. Motors on, A/C running, and another day heading NORTH!
Jensen Beach Causeway Bridge (65’)
The sun rose over the eastern shoreline as we cruised along the Indian River Lagoon, with Hutchinson Island separating us from the Atlantic. It was a peaceful start, with very little traffic and plenty of room to enjoy the morning.
The scenery was a mix of mangroves, waterfront homes, small docks, and long stretches of undeveloped shoreline. Compared with the narrow canals farther south, the lagoon felt HUGE. But don’t let all that open water fool you. Shallow flats and shoals meant we still needed to stay in the marked channel.
We were also cruising through Florida’s Treasure Coast, which includes Martin, St. Lucie, and Indian River counties.
And yes, there’s actual TREASURE involved! Not that we found it, sadly.
The region got its name after a fleet of Spanish ships carrying gold and silver was wrecked offshore during a hurricane in 1715. Treasure from those shipwrecks has been recovered along this coastline ever since.
Barreling Through Fort Pierce
As we approached Fort Pierce, things got a little busier. Marinas, fishing boats, waterfront development, and traffic coming and going from the Fort Pierce Inlet made for a change from our quiet morning.
Fort Pierce had a more traditional working-waterfront feel than the fancy yacht clubs and luxury neighborhoods we’d been passing farther south. Fishing boats, commercial activity, and a historic downtown gave it a little more character and a LOT less glitz.
If we’d been running north offshore, Fort Pierce would have been a great place to duck in for a rest. In fact, we would eventually return and discover just how much we liked its community and amenities. But not today. We had miles to make!
With the inlet nearby, we kept an eye on currents and crossing traffic, then continued north.
“Velcro Beach” and Friday on the Water
North of Fort Pierce, the ICW settled back into long, peaceful stretches of the Indian River Lagoon. Mangrove islands, grassy shallows, waterfront homes, and scattered marinas filled the view.
Next up was Vero Beach, affectionately known among cruisers as Velcro Beach because boats have a habit of arriving for a few days and staying MUCH longer. With its protected municipal mooring field and easy access to town, it’s not hard to understand why.
The area had a relaxed, residential feel, with mature trees and tropical greenery replacing much of the concrete and high-rises we’d seen farther south.
There were also plenty of little dinghies and Hobie Cats out enjoying the water. It was Friday in July, after all. Why WOULDN’T you be out on a boat?!
Dolphins, Crab Pots, and BIG Boat Wakes
Continuing north toward Sebastian, the scenery just kept getting better. Small mangrove-covered spoil islands dotted the lagoon, many originally created from material dredged to maintain the ICW. Over time, some became little havens for wildlife and boaters alike.
Sebastian had that Old Florida feel, with fishing docks, modest waterfront homes, and a strong fishing culture. Far less polished than the communities farther south, and honestly, a refreshing change.
Beyond Sebastian, around Grant-Valkaria and Malabar, things got even quieter. Natural shorelines, wooded properties, mangroves, and small waterfront communities replaced the big developments.
For a while, it actually felt like we’d escaped the South Florida hustle!
Of course, the Indian River Lagoon had a few reminders that this was still boating. The water was shallow outside the channel, the wind kicked up some uncomfortable chop, and by afternoon, the BIG boat wakes were becoming increasingly annoying.
Friday in July. Everybody was apparently out enjoying their boats, including the ones determined to throw the biggest wakes possible.
BUT WE HAD DOLPHINS! Lots and LOTS of dolphins! They were everywhere, making the day that much more entertaining. Unfortunately, so were the crab pots, which meant keeping a close eye on the water ahead.
Dolphins, crab pots, and boat wakes. You take the good with the not-so-great.
It’s all part of the adventure!
Melbourne – Entering the Space Coast
As we approached Palm Bay and Melbourne, and entered what is considered the ‘Space Coast’ civilization slowly returned. More houses, docks, causeways, and waterfront development lined the lagoon, although it still felt wonderfully spacious compared with the waterways farther south.
It’s known as the Space Coast for it’s active rocket launch centered around centered around the John F. Kennedy Space Center and Cape Canaveral Space Force Station. Fun fact: The local area code for phone numbers around Cape Canaveral (321) chosen as a nod to rocket countdowns.
Near the Melbourne Causeway, we watched another sailboat make its way beneath the bridge with its mast still standing.
Talk about a SLOW approach!
From our vantage point, that mast looked awfully close to the bridge, and we could practically feel everyone aboard holding their breath.
No judgment here. We would have done EXACTLY the same thing. In fact, we know that because we eventually transit under 65′ bridges with our full rig!
Mast height probably 64′ & inches
Fun fact: The Indian River Lagoon isn’t actually a river in the traditional sense. It’s a long, shallow estuarine lagoon, part of one of North America’s most biologically diverse estuary systems. The water can range from brackish to nearly marine depending on location, rainfall, and proximity to ocean inlets. Well, I thought it was fun 😉
Either way, it was a fitting place to end a long day: back near a city, but without the overwhelming boat traffic and constant bridge noise.
So, after more than nine hours underway, we finally reached our anchorage near Eau Gallie. We dropped the hook, dragged a little, and eventually got it to dig into the muddy, almost tar-like bottom. Whew! Long day!
With Water Wings settled for the night, we fired up the grill for hamburgers and hot dogs. But we weren’t quite finished with the day yet.
A Little Detour to Frigate’s
After dinner, we hopped in the dinghy and headed up the Eau Gallie River in search of Frigate’s Waterfront Bar & Grill. Kevin had been there before and was pretty excited to go back.
The narrow, winding river was a fun little change from the wide-open lagoon, with waterfront homes, docks, and lush greenery along the way. And then, BOOM! There it was. Palm trees, tropical vibes, open-air dining, and most importantly, COLD DRINKS! Exactly our kind of place. And BONUS! The US Women’s National Team was playing its opening match of the Women’s World Cup, and the game was on!
A waterfront bar, cold drinks, and Team USA kicking off the tournament with a WIN. Now THAT is how you end a long day on the ICW. Priorities, people!
A Little Nighttime Magic
And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, the US women did win after all…the water had one more surprise for us.
BIOLUMINESCENCE!
Back aboard Water Wings, we noticed the water glowing whenever it was disturbed. So naturally, I sat on the transom, dangled my feet in, and started swishing them around like a little kid.
Every kick sent little flashes of light swirling through the dark water.
Seriously, I SO love nature!
After a long day of motoring, more dolphins than we could count, a fun dinghy adventure, and a Team USA victory, we got our very own underwater light show.
Not a bad way to end Day 4!
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