As the sun rose over Staniel Cay, we started prepping for our day’s sail. The previous night while we were enjoying our 2 for 1 St. Patricks Day Rum specials, we had been debating whether or not to to head north back out on the east side of the Exumas or turn west inside and head up the Exuma Bank. We had been a bit gun shy on staying inside. The Exuma Bank while known for its clear and calmer waters popular for boating, fishing and diving, the area presents some decent navigational challenges due to shallow depths and coral heads, particularly for those unfamiliar (aka us!) with the area. While debating, a fellow cruiser stopped by for a chat, and we asked her if they had done it and if we should be concerned to do it. She gave us a Pffft and hand wave indicating it was going to be no problem and we shouldn’t even think twice, and this is exactly what we were hoping to hear! (Our mothers: If your fellow cruisers jumped off a cliff would you? Erin and Kevin: [apparently] Oh. Hell. Yes!)
Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park
So with the inside route planned, we pulled the anchor and headed out on to the bank. We were excited to be heading this way because this route would take us through the highly touted Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, one of 26 national parks and protected areas managed by the Bahamas Natural Trust. Founded in 1958, the park was the first land and sea park in the world. This 22 mile stretch, accessible only by boat, an island chain that is one of the most pristine and beautiful areas in the world! There are no commercial developments, no fishing (you can’t even remove shells!) and the only inhabited islands are a few that are privately owned. Just 113,000 acres of protected aquamarine waters, unspoiled cays and coral reefs.
We set our sails and headed north only for the wind to slowly die off in route over the first couple hours, so we ended up motoring most of the way. The Bank was beautiful, the blues were unreal and yes, it was shallow at times, but we had good light and were able to avoid any random coral heads we thought might be a problem. It was a fairly uneventful trip until we were on anchor off of beautiful Shroud Cay.
Shroud Cay
Shroud Cay is the northernmost point of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
The island itself is characterized by vast mangrove creeks which provide shelter for a lot of marine life. We saw no shortage of turtles, nurse sharks, rays, conchs and birds while we were there. The Cay’s name is said to have come from its resemblance to the long narrow sheet or ‘shroud’, used to wrap a body. Hard to see from the boat. What we could see was beautiful beaches and mangroves. I jumped on the paddle board not long after we arrived. I tried to paddle into a small beach area. I was going against the wind initially, but realized the wind was shifting and increased quickly to 20+ kts.
I found myself in quite the conundrum. I was paddling my little heart out trying to get back to the boat and making very little headway. (Sometimes in the exact opposite direction.) I got down on my knees to make myself as small as possible and thought I might have to hang on to the super yacht’s anchor parked halfway between where I had made it and Water Wings and hope Kevin saw I needed help and come rescue me with Nugget (our dinghy). He was actually in the process of lowering the dinghy off it’s davits, but I managed to get myself back…though exhausted. About this time the skies unleashed an amazing amount of rain.
Shroud Cay offers plenty of amazing opportunities including numerous hikes, creeks, diving, and snorkeling, and random other gems to explore. We only had one full day so we had to decide what would be best. The following day, I was able to paddle to my original destination, a nearby beach creek area, where at low tide creates a wading area where everyone goes to hang out! It was a fun little cove that I hiked around before heading back to the boat. Next, we decided to explore the “lazy river” and Washing machine.
The Washing Machine
One of the most unique areas of Shroud Cay is known locally as the “Washing Machine”. On the northern end of the island you can enter a long narrow mangrove creek, Sanctuary Creek, that winds itself across the island and exits on eastern side where it opens into the ocean with a spectacular beach area. If you time the tides right, it essentially comes a bit of lazy river ride with A LOT of turtles!… It does range in depth from 6 feet to 6 inches so approaching at a rising tide is easiest and definitely keep your eyes out lest you want to drag your dinghy prop through a bit of sand…not that we did 😉
At the end, the ocean creates a strong current that rushes into the creek past a sandbar and beach. If you jump in on the ocean side, which was as warm as bath water, you can ride the ‘rapid’ through the inlet into the creek just floating on your back. It was such a fun ride. I had to do it twice! Once we had our fun, we headed back to the west side and didn’t need the motor at all, we just rode the current almost all the way out!
This was hands down one of our favorite stops in the Bahamas. The natural beauty could not be beat. The sunsets…there are no pics here becuase they wouldn’t do it justice. This was one easily of the most beautiful places on earth.
Next Stop: Nassau